2019/07/14

Friday, June 7th: Oxford, Bodleian Library, and Christ Church College

Friday, June 7, 2019

My favorite day of the entire month in London was our day trip to Oxford. Before we had even finished the day I knew I'd have to come back and stay for a week to get any sort of "fill" of the place, and attempt to experience it properly.

Our day was broken into two visits: the first to the Bodleian Library of Oxford University, and the second to Christ Church College, within the university system.

A gloriously rainy day in Oxford



Oxford University




Radcliffe Camera



Bodleian Library

Like many of the institutions we visited over the course of the program, we were not permitted to take photographs beyond the ground floor rooms at the start and conclusion of our tour. However, I was thrilled we were taken up to the gorgeous Duke Humfrey's Library. Our lovely tour guide gave us waves of information, like the horrifying fact (to any library school student) that because of the Reformation, in 1549, any book deemed "too Catholic" of the initial book collection of Duke Humphrey's was chucked out the window and burned. Only 50 survived to see the resurrection of the library in 1602 by Thomas Bodley, who was responsible for the 4 year renovation and the addition of 2,500 donated books to the library's scarce collection. Bodley is also responsible for the oath that is still used today, 400 years later, requiring users to swear not to bring any fire or flame, or damage of any kind, to any materials in the library.


Our guide definitely knew her audience when she told of Thomas James, the first Bodleian librarian, who spent 3 years creating the first catalog. Pressmarks, or numbers written on the fore-edges, were used as identifiers on the chained books, which were maintained until students boycotted the library in protest of the noise - the chains were then removed.

Now the second largest national library in the United Kingdom, behind only the British Library, the steady collection intake rate is due to the continued Stationer's Company agreement Bodley made in 1610 to ensure one copy of every printed book in the country be sent to the Bodleian. This fixed the Bod's place as one of 6 national depositories today. This massive growth required more storage, utilized first in the Radcliffe Camera (formerly Library) until 1860 when it joined with the Bodleian. The first underground library storage in Europe exists to link the Bodleian and the Rad Cam. The New Bod was built in 1937-40 to solve the lack of space that such a massive intake rate required, it could house up to 5 million books, and was rebuilt in 2015.

Filming at Oxford University

The Divinity School, the oldest room in the University

Convocation Room

Leaving the Bod, we passed Blackwell's, Oxford's academic book store and longstanding library supplier. It was probably for the best that I didn't have time to go inside.. next time!


I was advised ahead of time that eating at The Eagle & Child was a must when I finally made it to Oxford, and our Bodleian Library tour guide quickly affirmed this idea when I mentioned it at the end of our tour. She was right! It was delicious, if a little busy on a rainy Friday, but so worth it. I savored every rushed bite before we rushed to make our afternoon tour at Christ Church.




Christ Church College



Our tour of Christ Church College was lead by College Librarian Steven Archer, who took us first through to the Old Library, a gorgeous small room lined with every antique book lover's dream library aesthetic on every wall big enough to hold the many floor to ceiling bookshelves. Archer showed us many noteworthy items in the prestigious collection, including the actual Bible that belonged to and was used by Queen Elizabeth I. Cue jaw drop #1.

(The Old Library)

We left the Old Library and were taken through several points of interest within the college, likely known for their appearances in various films, including the Harry Potter series. Of which I have been a MASSIVE fan since I first read the Sorcerer's Stone when it came out in 1998 (U.S.). Lifelong fan here. So these next 2 stops on our tour were especially special.

As soon as we reached this staircase, I could instantly picture which scenes in the first 2 Harry Potter films took place here. Definitely nerded out. Jaw drop #2.

Christ Church College Dining Hall - aka the Hogwarts Great Hall. 
More nerding out. Jaw drop #3.



Archer then led us to the new main library of Christ Church College up to the second floor (the left half pictured below) and to his office where we could all sit and chat with him about librarianship operations at Oxford and his experiences. He indulged our many questions with the attentive care of a fellow librarian; again our field of study came in handy for both tour guide and students. 


He had some more items on the table for us to look at, and wrapped up our visit with a final jaw drop (#4!) moment of mentioning that his office happened to be the former office of Lewis Carroll. All 16 of us shared very audible reactions of shock, and gained further appreciation for the countless treasurers we saw up close that day.




Needless to say, Oxford took my breath away. Definitely on my list to go back.



Thursday, June 6th: Stratford and Shakespeare

Thursday, June 6, 2019

We took a break from being library school students and joined the Theatre group of our larger British Studies Program on a trek outside of London to Stratford-Upon-Avon, aka Shakespeare Central. We had the morning free to explore before meeting back at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre for a matinee.

We got our early morning kicked off with a stop at a gorgeous coffee shop - Bardia's - and then several of us ventured from there to an antique shop and a couple book shops - antiques and books, every library school student's favorite things, right?










From there we discovered a local cat cafe where we could have tea and lunch and enjoy some adorable feline amusement. Truly a day of leisure in the English countryside. Check out Shakespaws Cat Cafe!




Our Shakespeare matinee was As You Like It, a wonderful production by the Royal Shakespeare Company. Find out what's on here for when you plan your visit!



Wednesday, June 5th: Royal Geographical Society and Sherlock Holmes Museum

Wednesday, June 5, 2019

We were introduced to one of our favorite story tellers of the trip at the Royal Geographical Society (RGS), where we were shown many maps and historical artifacts from the early explorers of the RGS. I was in awe, and scrambled to take what notes I could.

I struggled to keep up with all the names, but listened in awe as Eugene (RGS Archivist/Librarian - I'm uncertain of his official title) told story after story of early explorers and their tasks getting expeditions and rented equipment funded by the Society. We heard about many attempts to follow the whole course of the White Nile River to discover where it came from. We learned that Harrods used to have expedition supply departments, and that Burberry got its start as a manufacturer of outdoor clothing and waterproof fabric. I was surprised and very intrigued by the stories of the many early 20th century attempts to climb Mt. Everest, and how the introduction of using oxygen to aid efforts was very controversial. Aussie scientist George Finch was responsible for both the first portable oxygen tank and the down jacket, and with oxygen the 1922 expedition reached 27,400 feet, less than 2,000 feet short of the top. Even after all that, the first successful expedition to the top wasn't until 1953.



The massive table we sat around while Eugene told these wonderful stories was lined with maps, photographs, and artifacts exemplifying the 2 million items the Society now holds in its two storage facilities. There was a "hot" side and a "cold" side of the table, relating to regions of the world documented; Africa vs. Mt. Everest, for example. We got to wander around the table and look at everything, but it was the first of several visits where it felt more like a class than a tour, which definitely served as a change of pace. Listening to captivating stories is never a bad thing in my book though, so I enjoyed it.

With our free afternoon, several of us popped over to the Sherlock Holmes Museum to revel in the consulting detective's Victorian-era digs. The detail in the decorations was quite impressive, and it was fun to nerd out at being at the actual 221B Baker Street - right in our neighborhood! 




Tuesday, June 4th: British Library and Conservation Centre

Tuesday, June 4, 2019

Day 2 of class brought us to the British Library and Conservation Centre, beginning with the latter and then a tour of the more notable parts of the former. Among the more well known sites on our itinerary, the British Library was already on my list of visits I was most looking forward to - I was not disappointed. During the lunch break I managed to check off a dream to-do and get my reader card for later research needed for our class research paper. I then bee-lined straight through the Treasures room to where they have Jane Austen's writing desk on display.



During our tour through the Conservation Centre, we heard from a couple of the paper conservators on staff, Jackie and Morgan. They taught us about the changes they make and explained the importance of documenting every decision and change as well as photographing each change. Wheat starch paste, which is a plant-based paste, is most common with paper repairs. Any repair or change made the staff aims to keep as reversible as possible, and their policy ensures that changes shouldn't be easily seen from six feet away.

British Library Reading Rooms info



The center iconic King's Library tower, which I found endless fun in trying to photograph over and over - its 85,000 volumes make for an eye-catching structure. Apparently the idea was taken from Yale University to encase the books - ranging from 1423 to 1820 - in a central glass tower. The British Library holds claim to being the first library to store books with preservation as the highest priority, contrary to general public expectation. 

As the National Library, their possession of approximately 200 million items is hardly a surprise; however only 35 million are housed on site. They estimate roughly 8,000 titles are amassed each day, while in comparison, the U.S. publishing output is estimated to be 30 times that amount. Among their collections, every language is represented, and their staff includes 101 language curators to properly care for the materials in any given language. Their 11 reading rooms help split their collections and make them more accessible, which is backed by a 97% satisfaction rate with meeting patron requests within 55-70 minutes. Impressive statistics for the world's third largest library!



Writing: Making Your Mark exhibition (through 27 August 2019)